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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.