Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on